The Singaporean who gets mistaken for a foreigner while running his family's Fuzhou oyster cake stall

On August 5, 2026, at the Maxwell Fuzhou Oyster Cake stall within Maxwell Food Centre in Singapore, a peculiar situation unfolded as a customer mistook Mr Deitrich Mohan, a 43-year-old Chinese-Indian man, for a foreigner. The confusion arose because he was operating the stall alone, following the departure of his mother, Madam Hoon Poh Hwa, who had just finished her shift at 3 p.m. Regular customers, accustomed to seeing her behind the counter, found themselves staring at Mr Mohan instead. Madam Hoon, 69, is the second-generation hawker of the renowned stall, which traces its origins back to her maternal grandmother’s establishment on Tras Street in Tanjong Pagar in 1962. The stall relocated to Maxwell Food Centre in 1986 and has since been recognized by the Michelin Guide for its signature dish, a round, crisp oyster cake filled with minced pork, oysters, prawns, and coriander. Despite its reputation, the stall faces occasional scrutiny due to the appearance of Mr Mohan, who is not easily recognizable as Madam Hoon’s son. Mr Mohan, whose name was given to him by his father, has taken over part-time shifts at the stall since October 2024. His role includes managing the cooking process, though he operates under a split-shift system with his mother. While she handles the early morning hours, he begins his shift later in the day and continues until the stall closes at 8 p.m. This arrangement means that at times, he is the sole representative of the stall, leading to unexpected interactions with customers. During these encounters, some patrons have questioned his identity, assuming he might not be Singaporean or doubting whether the quality of the food has remained consistent. These remarks have become a familiar part of his experience, prompting him to respond in fluent Mandarin, often with a lighthearted tone. “Come, how many do you want?” he says, aiming to ease any lingering doubts. Mr Mohan’s journey to becoming a hawker reflects a complex personal history shaped by cultural and racial dynamics. Born to a Chinese-Indian couple, he grew up feeling somewhat out of place in a society that often emphasizes racial distinctions. His parents, who met in the late 1970s while working at Plaza Singapura, faced challenges due to their mixed heritage. Their relationship developed through shared routines, including synchronized morning commutes, which eventually evolved into a deep bond. Despite initial resistance from both families, the couple married and raised their son, who has grown up navigating the nuances of multicultural identity. Mr Mohan recalls being a quiet child, often overlooked in favor of his more outgoing siblings. However, his grandfather’s eventual acceptance of him marked a turning point in his life. Today, Mr Mohan continues to manage the stall, embracing the challenges of being perceived as different. His ability to remain composed in the face of customer curiosity speaks to his resilience and understanding of the broader social context in which he operates. As the oyster cakes continue to sizzle and draw crowds, so too does the story of a man striving to find belonging in a city where identity is often scrutinized.