Photographer Stella Nastou captures Ancient Messene’s beguiling silence

Photographer Stella Nastou has captured the enduring silence of Ancient Messene through a series of evocative images that span over 2,000 years of history. The exhibition, titled Messene or The Power in the Silence of Time, runs until August 30 at the entrance of the Athens Concert Hall and offers viewers a visual journey from 369 BC to the present day. Nastou's photographs focus on the quiet beauty of the archaeological site in the southwestern Peloponnese, emphasizing the timeless nature of the ruins rather than their historical grandeur. Ancient Messene, originally known as Ithomi, was established in 369 BC following the Messinians' liberation from nearly 350 years of Spartan domination. This period saw many locals flee to avoid enslavement, but the founding of the city represented an opportunity for these exiles to return and forge a new communal identity. With support from the Thebans, the city became a hub for political, religious, and artistic activity over the subsequent centuries. Today, the remnants of this once-thriving civilization remain remarkably intact, forming one of Greece's most significant and well-preserved archaeological sites. The current state of the site owes much to the extensive excavation efforts led by the late Greek archaeologist Petros Themelis. While initial investigations began in the late 19th century, Themelis spearheaded a major modern excavation project that lasted over three decades. His work uncovered key structures such as the theater, asclepieion, stadium, agora, ekklesiasterion, odeon, sanctuaries, and fortifications, revealing the layout and essence of the ancient city. Reflecting on his lifelong dedication to the site, Themelis once remarked, “I have known great happiness at Ancient Messene.” Nastou's photographic approach mirrors this reverence for the past. Rather than focusing on dramatic elements, she highlights the subtle details, pieces of marble, wild vegetation growing in rock crevices, the interplay of light and shadow, and the vast horizon. Standing before the ruins, she observes what remains long after human presence fades away. The geographical context of Ancient Messene adds layers of historical significance. The site overlooks the sea, with the nearby islet of Sfaktiria visible on the horizon. This vantage point connects two pivotal moments in Greek history: the founding of Messene in 369 BC and the 1827 Battle of Navarino, where the combined fleets of England, France, and Russia decisively defeated the Ottoman forces during the Greek War of Independence. These events, though separated by centuries, share a common thread of struggle and resilience, encapsulated within the landscape itself. Nastou's photographs do not require additional commentary to convey this rich history. The very geography of the region speaks volumes, linking the ancient city's origins to the broader narrative of Greek independence. The imagery captures the essence of freedom, displacement, return, and renewal, all converging in this singular location. Through her lens, the viewer is invited to reflect on the passage of time and the enduring legacy of human endeavor.