Palafrugell, the cultural summer of the Costa Brava: from Josep Pla to Dorothea Lange

Palafrugell, a small coastal town nestled along the Costa Brava in Catalonia, has become the epicenter of a summer cultural event that blends literature, photography, and local heritage. The town’s historic old quarter, far removed from the sun-soaked beaches just four kilometers away, offers a serene setting where the legacy of writer Josep Pla intertwines with contemporary art. This year's cultural season features a special exhibition titled Adjetivar el tiempo, which brings together the poetic sensibility of Pla and the visual storytelling of photographer Txema Salvans. The event runs alongside the long-standing Xavier Miserachs Photography Biennale, one of Spain’s oldest photographic festivals, which continues to draw growing crowds despite the town’s remote location accessible only by car or bus. The exhibition, held within the walls of the Fundación Josep Pla, showcases Salvans’ photographs, which capture the quiet, often overlooked moments of everyday life. His images, saturated with color and filled with subtle emotion, contrast yet complement the lyrical prose of Pla, who once wrote that “writing consists mainly in finding adjectives.” The exhibition features a selection of Salvans’ work from his series Perfect Day (2005–2020), including striking shots of empty parking lots, midday gas stations, and abandoned tourist spots. These images, though seemingly mundane, resonate deeply with the reflective tone of Pla’s writing, suggesting a shared reverence for detail and observation. Salvans himself describes their collaboration as a meeting of minds driven by patience and attention to the unnoticed. He notes that both he and Pla share a similar approach to their craft, one that requires time and a willingness to dwell on the ordinary. His style, described as ironic and sharp, echoes the literary wit of Pla while extending into the urban landscapes of highways, margins, and peripheries. The exhibition, part of the Miserachs Biennale, highlights how artistic traditions can evolve while remaining rooted in place and history. Just two blocks from the Fundación Josep Pla stands the Centre Fraternal, a community hub founded in the late 19th century as a public space for workers, merchants, writers, and artists. It was here that young Josep Pla spent many afternoons, later reflecting on the importance of avoiding idle chatter and superficial socializing. Today, the Centre remains a vibrant gathering spot, where retired residents play cards under green tables, and visitors to the biennale find common ground over locally sourced meals priced at 16 euros during the week. The café serves as a natural meeting point, drawing both locals and international participants alike. Maria Planas, director of the biennale, recalls the festival’s origins in 1999, shortly after the death of its namesake, Xavier Miserachs. A pioneering figure in Catalan photography, Miserachs had deep ties to Palafrugell, even settling outside the town in the 1980s. His passing marked a turning point, inspiring friends and fellow photographers such as Colita and Leopoldo Pomés to honor his memory through small, intimate exhibitions scattered throughout the village. Though Miserachs’ generation produced a wealth of influential work, much of it remains relatively unknown to the broader public, according to Planas. This year marks a significant shift in attendance, with more than 8,000 visitors participating in the biennale, a remarkable increase from the approximately 600 attendees in its debut year. The growth reflects the enduring appeal of Palafrugell’s cultural offerings, even as the town remains largely off the beaten path. As the festival continues until October 18, it reaffirms the power of local art and history to captivate audiences beyond their immediate surroundings.