The oldest observation tower in Prague, known as the Cibulka, remains hidden in plain sight within the Lesopark Cibulka, a quiet oasis far removed from the bustling city center. Unlike the more famous Petřín Hill, which hosts a prominent tower visible from many parts of the capital, the Cibulka is nestled in a serene area near the Plzeňská Street, where the usual urban noise seems to fade into silence. This tranquility contrasts sharply with the nearby traffic and crowds typical of other central Prague parks such as Letná or Stromovka.
Constructed around 1820, the Cibulka was commissioned by Bishop Leopold Thun-Hohenstein, who sought to transform a local estate into a grand summer residence inspired by the English landscape garden style. At that time, European aristocracy was deeply influenced by Romanticism, and this aesthetic is reflected in the park's design. The park features artificial lakes, ruins, a Chinese pavilion, statues of ancient gods, and, of course, the Cibulka itself. However, unlike modern observation towers designed primarily for panoramic views, the Cibulka was initially conceived as a decorative element meant to resemble a medieval ruin rather than a functional lookout point.
Standing at 13 meters tall, the Cibulka is an architectural curiosity. Its narrow staircase, consisting of 72 steps, leads to its summit, where space is so limited that two people walking in opposite directions would have little choice but to either turn back or step aside. Despite its modest height, the view from the top is not particularly expansive, offering glimpses of apartment blocks in Řepích and the greenery surrounding the Motol Hospital. Yet, the solitude and calm of the surroundings provide a unique experience, enhanced by the sounds of birdsong and the rustling leaves.
The park is named after Blazej Cibulka from Veleslavín, the former owner of the estate who later sold it to Bishop Leopold. In addition to the Cibulka, the park includes several notable structures, including the charming octagonal Chinese pavilion, adorned with decorative elements such as figurines and a bell. Scattered throughout the park are various sculptures, each contributing to the overall atmosphere of the place. One sculpture located beneath the Cibulka depicts a scene reminiscent of Dante’s Inferno, though it is also referred to as Chronos or the Cyclops, leaving room for interpretation regarding whether it represents the Greek god of time or the mythical giant.
Other sculptures include the Roman goddess of hunting, Diana, accompanied by her hounds, and Jupiter, the supreme Roman deity. Near the entrance to the park stands Saint John of Nepomuk, a Czech patron saint. These artistic elements, combined with the remnants of walls and ivy-covered pathways, create a rich tapestry of historical and cultural significance.
For visitors interested in exploring the Cibulka, the nearest tram stop is Poštovka, making it an ideal starting point for a visit. Alternatively, the train station Stodůlky offers another convenient access point. The park seamlessly connects with neighboring areas such as Košíře-Motol and the hill of Vidoule, providing ample opportunities for leisurely walks and further exploration of the surrounding natural beauty.
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