Grape harvest underway with good omens from weather, if not from sales

The grape harvest has begun across Greece, marking the start of the 2025 vintage, with favorable weather conditions contributing to healthy crops in most regions. However, winemakers face challenges beyond the fields, including reduced consumer demand both domestically and internationally. This shift has led to a potential delay in the release of the first white wines of the 2026 vintage, which could appear as early as January rather than the traditional November, allowing producers to align with increased holiday consumption and clear existing stockpiles. Stellios Boutaris, president of the Greek Wine Federation (SEO), noted that this delayed release might benefit the quality of the new vintage, as extended aging in tanks under optimal conditions can enhance wine. While this approach contrasts with recent trends favoring rapid releases, it reflects a strategic response to current market dynamics. In most regions, except for Mantineia, Nemea, Tyrnavos, and parts of northern Greece affected by severe hail damage in May, resulting in up to 70% loss of production, grapes are in excellent condition. These areas continue to struggle with recovery from past extreme weather events. Despite improved conditions, the issue of abandoned vineyards persists, especially in popular regions like Santorini, where tourism pressures and a lack of new growers threaten continuity. Santorini, traditionally the first region to signal the start of Greece’s harvest, is currently picking its first grapes. Although this year's weather has been relatively kind to the island’s vines, the effects of two consecutive years of severe drought have not fully subsided. Winemaker Aris Tselepos, operating Canava Chrissou-Tselepos alongside the Chrissou family, expressed cautious optimism, hoping for improvement in the upcoming season. Damage to grapevines has also been reported in other key regions. In Mantineia, oenologist Tselepos described the situation as dire, noting that production across the area has dropped significantly. The damage occurred after a period of heavy rain followed by an unexpected sharp temperature drop to between -1 and -3 degrees Celsius. Similarly, Agiorgitiko vineyards, particularly in lower-lying areas of Nemea, have faced notable setbacks. On Crete, harvesting is set to begin in some areas in August. Nikos Douloufakis, head of his family winery in Dafnes, Iraklio, anticipates slightly higher production than last year, citing favorable weather conditions. He highlighted the importance of late rains and cooler nighttime temperatures, which have supported healthy vine growth and ripening. “If the weather sees us through, I’m in great shape,” he remarked, expressing confidence in the current growing season. Winemaker Andreas Gikas, based in Spata, observed that this year’s harvest in Attica has started later than recent vintages, indicating ongoing variability in regional conditions. Meanwhile, changing consumer behavior poses a broader challenge. Traditional patterns of wine consumption have shifted, with customers increasingly opting for convenience options such as Airbnb rentals and supermarket purchases. This transformation has impacted demand, particularly affecting certain varietals like Malagousia, which has lost popularity among restaurants despite continued production by numerous wineries.