Kružna ekonomija: EU zabranjuje velikim proizvođačima odlaganje neprodane odjeće

Starting Sunday, major clothing manufacturers operating within the European Union are prohibited from destroying unsold garments and footwear. The new regulation, part of the EU's Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation enacted in July 2024, mandates that companies explore alternatives such as reselling, donating, or recycling these items rather than discarding them. This measure aims to reduce waste and promote a more circular economy by ensuring products remain in use longer. The rule applies primarily to large enterprises, with smaller businesses facing delayed implementation. Exceptions exist for goods deemed hazardous, damaged, or contaminated, which cannot be reused or recycled. Additionally, items offered to multiple social welfare organizations within the EU but not accepted within a specified timeframe can still be destroyed. These provisions aim to balance environmental goals with practical business realities. According to the German Retail Federation (HDE), the ban could benefit consumers by increasing the availability of discounted merchandise through outlets, clearance markets, and second-hand channels. HDE’s chief executive, Stefan Genth, highlighted potential ecological advantages, noting that fewer new clothes would be discarded and that products might be sold or donated more frequently. However, he acknowledged challenges faced by retailers, including difficulties in reselling certain items due to damaged packaging, high logistics costs, low demand, or minimal product value. Additional expenses related to storage, sorting, preparation, and marketing would burden businesses, alongside documentation requirements and legal uncertainties regarding donations or second-hand sales. The German Fashion Association supports the regulation, emphasizing that clothing represents valuable resources whose destruction should be avoided. Thomas Lange, its managing director, stated that the prohibition sends a crucial message about responsible resource management. However, he pointed out that many European clothing companies already refrain from destroying unsold stock, highlighting the real challenge lies in the vast quantities of inexpensive fast fashion purchased directly from non-European suppliers. Lange argued that these companies should share the costs associated with collecting, sorting, and recycling used textiles equally with European manufacturers. Critics argue that the regulation imposes unnecessary bureaucratic burdens on domestic industries without effectively addressing the root issues of fast fashion. Jonas Stracke, an expert from the German Association of the Textile and Fashion Industry, noted that the law overlooks the need for functional collection, sorting, and recycling systems. He suggested that until these structures are in place, the destruction ban remains largely symbolic. Stracke added that no German or European manufacturer destroys flawless new stock, yet the perception persists that companies are mass-producing waste. The legislation creates additional bureaucracy for firms not responsible for the accumulation of low-value textile waste. Environmental organizations have raised concerns about potential loopholes in the regulation. Moritz Jäger-Roschko from Greenpeace acknowledged the correctness of the ban but warned that corporations could circumvent it through false product declarations. Without rigorous enforcement mechanisms, he emphasized, meaningful change in practice will not occur. The core issue, according to critics, remains unresolved, pointing to the need for comprehensive strategies beyond mere prohibitions.