Waitrose sees surprise spike in these dishes as heatwaves bring ‘feta fatigue’

Britons are turning away from salads and embracing heartier fare amid the latest heatwave, marking a shift dubbed “reverse comfort eating.” Sales of cottage pies at Waitrose have surged by 110% in the past month, while South African red wine saw a 68% increase compared to the same period last year. This trend extends beyond traditional British dishes, with chicken korma and chicken and ham gratin also experiencing notable jumps, 67% and 68%, respectively. Meanwhile, searches for classic recipes on Waitrose’s website have risen sharply, including toad-in-the-hole (up 67%), spaghetti bolognese (up 91%), and rarebit mac and cheese (up 57%). Trifle, another nostalgic favorite, has seen a 100% year-on-year sales increase, particularly the strawberry variety. The phenomenon appears to be driven by a combination of factors, including the unusually high temperatures, economic pressures, and a general sense of unease linked to global conflicts and domestic political changes. Food historian Seren Charrington-Hollis noted that even in the midst of extreme heat, people are seeking comfort in familiar, home-cooked meals. She observed this firsthand at a recent event in Llangollen, where attendees, despite the oppressive heat, eagerly consumed cottage pies and lamb hotpots. Charrington-Hollis described the preference for traditional dishes as a psychological response, suggesting that people are looking to reconnect with simpler times and find solace in the familiar. This sentiment aligns with broader observations from chefs and food experts. Chef Simon Wood, a former MasterChef contestant, suggested that the current trend reflects a desire to recreate the experience of dining out at home. With many households cutting back on restaurant visits due to financial strain, people are opting for comforting, easy-to-make meals that evoke the ambiance of a pub. He also pointed to practical considerations, such as time constraints and limited culinary skills, as contributing factors. Additionally, he noted that people are growing tired of salads, especially when shopping infrequently, making them less viable for daily consumption. Prof Rebecca Earle, a food historian at the University of Warwick, framed the behavior within a longer historical context. She explained that using food as a means to alleviate distress or unhappiness is a common human tendency, one that has persisted throughout history. The inclusion of diverse dishes like chicken korma in the list of popular items highlights the multicultural nature of modern British cuisine. While the majority of the surge in demand seems tied to traditional, postwar-era British fare, the presence of international flavors suggests a more nuanced picture of consumer preferences. Waitrose’s senior innovation chef, Stephen Parkins-Knight, offered further insight into the trend. He emphasized that the heat itself plays a role in shifting dietary choices, noting that raw salads and chilled dishes can quickly become unappealing under intense conditions. Instead, consumers are gravitating towards richer, more substantial options that provide warmth and satisfaction. Parkins-Knight described the trend as “reverse comfort eating,” highlighting how people seek out familiar, grounding foods after being physically and mentally drained by the heat. His comments echoed the idea that food serves as a form of emotional reassurance, offering a sense of stability and connection to the past. The heatwave continues to intensify, with forecasts predicting temperatures reaching up to 35°C in parts of southeastern England. This marks the fourth heatwave of the year, following record-breaking temperatures in May and June, and a notably dry July. The Met Office reports that July has been 3°C warmer than average, with southern England receiving just 1% of its typical rainfall. Areas like Wisley in Surrey have experienced 40 consecutive dry days, exacerbating the challenges posed by the prolonged drought. As the weather persists, it is likely that the trend toward reverse comfort eating will continue, reinforcing the notion that food remains a powerful tool for coping with uncertainty and environmental stress.