Burnt vines, 'smoke taste' and decreased attendance: what are the consequences for the winegrowers of Provence in the face of the fires?

A fierce wildfire near Montfort-sur-Argens, close to Correns in the Var department, has sent thick smoke billowing into the air on August 1, 2026, amid worsening drought conditions following a heatwave and water shortages across much of France. The blaze, part of what is shaping up as the longest fire in the region’s history, has already impacted local vineyards, with fears growing over potential damage to grape quality due to smoke contamination. As firefighters continue battling flare-ups in Provence, vignerons, many of whom operate within the 30,000 hectares of vineyards in the area, are beginning to tally the losses. In the Gros Bessillon area, which gave its name to the fire, some vignerons have been left devastated. Fabien Mistre, president of the cooperative winery in Correns, reports that several growers have lost up to 30 percent of their land, with some parcels completely destroyed. He estimates that rebuilding such areas could take “20 to 30 years.” At Domaine Saint-Andrieu, located in Correns, nearly half a hectare of vines was burned, according to its manager, Grégory Guibergia. While he acknowledges the situation is somewhat stabilized, he warns that the fire could reignite at any time, especially during the coming days with the return of the mistral wind. Nearby, at Château de Nestuby, a small portion of the vineyard was affected, though the estate remains alert after experiencing daily flare-ups throughout the week. The Chamber of Agriculture of the Var, cited by the specialized wine publication Vitisphère, has recorded 50 hectares of productive vineyards being damaged. For many vignerons, the greatest concern lies in the so-called “smoke taste” feared by professionals living near the fires. Smoke and ash fallout could potentially contaminate grape clusters, imparting an undesirable smoky flavor to the future vintage. Grégory Guibergia of Domaine Saint-Andrieu admits helplessness, noting that while some producers may remain unaffected, others could see their entire harvest compromised. Samples of grapes were scheduled to be sent to a laboratory on Wednesday to assess how the three weeks of fire exposure might affect the upcoming harvest. At Château La Calisse, north of Gros Bessillon, precautions are being taken to avoid similar issues. Although most parcels were spared from direct flames thanks to the protective role of surrounding vines, some were exposed to high temperatures. Owner Patricia Ortelli explains that they will likely harvest the grapes separately to prevent a burnt flavor in the wines. She expresses deep disappointment over the impact on oenotourism, stating that July, the busiest month for visitors, has seen zero tourists this year. Roads were closed, and no one visited the estate. She also raises concerns about the use of ammonium phosphate-based fire retardants sprayed by aerial tankers, recalling a similar incident 25 years ago when she had to downgrade part of her crop.