A new study based on seven centuries of grape harvest records in Burgundy has revealed the profound impact of climate change on wine production. Historian Thomas Labbé, who conducted the research, found that extreme weather events, particularly heatwaves, have become increasingly frequent, with harvests starting earlier than ever before. According to the European scientific journal Climate of the Past, this is the longest continuous series of harvest dates recorded anywhere in the world. The data spans over 670 years, from 1354 to the present day, compiled from historical archives in Beaune, the heart of Burgundian winemaking. Before 1719, extreme heat events occurred roughly once every 17 years, leading to early harvests. Between 1720 and 1987, these occurrences were spaced approximately 53 years apart. However, since 1988, such extremes have become much more common, happening nearly every five years. In the 21st century alone, there have already been ten such years, averaging one every two-and-a-half years. This trend appears to be accelerating, with 2026 setting a new record for early harvests in some regions. In Burgundy, the start of the harvest season for sparkling wine grapes began as early as Saturday, marking a new benchmark. For still wines in Beaune, the main focus of Labbé’s study, the earliest cuts with pruning shears are expected to occur between August 20 and 25, according to current forecasts. This would not break the historical record set in 1556, which took place on August 15. The study highlights how extreme weather patterns have shifted dramatically over time. While severe droughts and high temperatures were once rare, they have become the norm in recent decades. Labbé points out that four of the ten hottest years recorded since 1354 have occurred in the 21st century: 2003, 2018, 2020, and 2025. With 2026 likely adding to this list, the frequency of such extremes continues to rise. Historical data shows that from the end of the Middle Ages up until 1988, the average harvest date in Beaune was around September 27. Since 1988, however, the timing has significantly accelerated. By 2019, the average harvest date had moved forward to September 6, a three-week shift compared to the previous six centuries of relative stability. According to Labbé, 80% of these changes can be attributed directly to temperature fluctuations. Comparing these findings with temperature records from Paris dating back to 1658, he notes that even a small increase in temperature leads to noticeable shifts in harvest times. A one-degree Celsius rise results in a ten-day advancement in the harvest period, while a 1.5-degree increase leads to a 15-day shift. These findings underscore the rapid warming of the planet since 1988, often cited as a turning point in the acceleration of climate change. As temperatures continue to climb, so too does the pressure on vineyards worldwide to adapt to increasingly unpredictable growing conditions. Across Europe, the effects of climate change are being felt acutely in the wine industry. In southern Sweden, young winemaker Romain Chichery has chosen to establish his vineyard despite the region's traditionally cool climate. His decision was influenced by both personal reasons and the changing climate, which has made traditional viticultural areas less viable. He describes the challenges of cultivating vines in an environment where water scarcity and extreme weather are becoming the norm. French vineyards face similar struggles. Droughts, heavy rains, heatwaves, late frosts, hailstorms, and even wildfires are all contributing to a volatile landscape for viticulturists. According to a Senate report, French vine yields dropped sharply by 22% in 2024 due to increasing climate-related disruptions. Simon Le Berre, a winemaker in the south of France, emphasizes the urgency of adapting to these changes. He warns of a major crisis facing the French wine sector and outlines strategies such as replanting with more resilient grape varieties and adjusting vineyard management practices to cope with immediate threats. Despite these efforts, the long-term nature of vine growth means that solutions will take years, if not decades, to fully implement. While some regions in northern Europe, including parts of the UK, have seen increased wine production due to warmer temperatures, the challenge remains in marketing and distributing these products effectively. Romain Chichery acknowledges that while the climate may be shifting northward, the economic realities of producing and selling wine remain complex and uncertain.
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