The stories behind four of Wellington’s most meaningful dishes

Wellington's culinary landscape is deeply rooted in the stories and traditions that shape its most cherished dishes. From a grandmother’s celebratory potatoes to recipes preserved during times of turmoil, the city's food scene reflects a tapestry of personal histories, cultural exchanges, and generational legacies. This year’s Visa Wellington on a Plate festival, themed around "word of mouth," celebrates how food stories, heritage recipes, and personal recommendations cross generations, cultures, and communities. Chefs and restaurateurs draw inspiration from their backgrounds, creating dishes that carry the weight of memory and meaning. Tony Assaf, owner of Phoenician Falafel, brings with him a legacy of survival and resilience. Growing up in Beirut during the Lebanese Civil War, he witnessed firsthand how food could serve as both sustenance and solace amid chaos. Faced with danger, he discreetly collected recipes from the city’s finest cooks, those who had mastered the art of falafel, shawarma, and makanek, a traditional Levantine sausage. These were not written down in cookbooks but passed on orally, each recipe a piece of knowledge entrusted to him in uncertain times. In 1995, Tony and his wife Yola relocated to Aotearoa, bringing these recipes with them. Today, at Phoenician Falafel, the beef makanek remains untouched by modernization. Yola prepares it by hand, using premium beef seasoned with Levantine spices, then cooking it on a flat-top. Served wrapped in warm bread with homemade hummus, pickles, and tomato, the dish embodies the enduring power of tradition and the careful preservation of culture. At Jano Bistro, Pierre-Alain Fenoux honors his grandmother’s legacy through his dauphine potatoes. Unlike the more familiar dauphinoise potatoes, which are typically made with cream and Gruyère, Fenoux’s version combines choux pastry with cooked potato, creating a rich, crisp texture. His grandmother used to prepare large batches of these potatoes whenever the entire family gathered, turning them into a symbol of celebration rather than daily fare. She believed that food should have a purpose, and everything added should evoke emotion. That philosophy lives on in the dish served at Jano, where the potatoes accompany the WOAP The Silence of the Lambs burger. The recipe itself includes chervil and Comté cheese, elements chosen not merely for flavor but for their ability to evoke nostalgia and joy. Other notable dishes reflect similar themes of inheritance and adaptation. At a local restaurant known for its fusion cuisine, a chef recounts learning the art of making a specific type of dumpling from her grandfather, who had once operated a small eatery in Shanghai. The technique, passed down over decades, involves folding delicate dough around a savory filling, ensuring that each bite retains the essence of its origins. The dish, now featured on the menu, serves as a tribute to her family’s history while appealing to contemporary palates. A third establishment showcases a dessert that originated from a family recipe shared during wartime. The story goes that during a period of scarcity, a relative devised a way to recreate a beloved cake using available ingredients. The recipe was preserved in a notebook, eventually finding its way into the hands of a young baker who expanded upon it, adding layers of complexity while maintaining its core identity. Now, the dessert is a staple at the restaurant, drawing customers who appreciate its historical significance and unique flavor profile. Each of these dishes tells a story, one of migration, survival, love, and innovation. Whether it is a recipe smuggled out of a war-torn city or a family favorite passed down through generations, the food of Wellington is more than nourishment. It is a living archive of human experience, shaped by the hands and hearts of those who prepare it. As the festival continues, visitors will find themselves immersed in the rich narratives that define the city’s culinary identity, discovering that every meal offers a glimpse into the past.