The issue at hand revolves around the transformation of local culinary traditions in Ljubljana, particularly focusing on the traditional pastry known as burek. While the price of a standard burek has risen to 15 euros, the real concern lies in whether locals who bring food to restaurants still have access to authentic versions of these dishes. This debate reflects broader concerns about authenticity, gentrification, and the impact of tourism on urban culture. In recent years, there has been growing discussion among residents and experts about how changes in pricing, menu offerings, and restaurant layouts cater increasingly to tourists rather than long-time locals. The phenomenon is often described as “turistifikacija,” or touristification, which refers to the shift in urban spaces toward catering to visitors, sometimes at the expense of local communities. This trend has sparked debates over who benefits from such transformations and whether the city’s character is being diluted. One notable figure commenting on this issue is Boris Dežulović, a Croatian journalist and former foreign correspondent. He once humorously remarked that people in Split, Croatia, often complain about being told by locals that they should eat at more authentic restaurants, places that Split citizens frequent. However, when he visited Prague, he found that even locals were unsure where to find genuine Czech cuisine, suggesting that authenticity itself is becoming a lost concept. His observations highlight a global pattern where traditional eateries are increasingly replaced by more commercialized options, often perceived as synthetic or inauthentic. This sentiment echoes similar discussions in Slovenia, particularly in Ljubljana. Local writers and commentators, including Ervin Hladnik Milharčič, have noted that while urban spaces are constantly evolving, the question remains: who truly benefits from these changes? Urban planning and economic shifts often lead to alterations in aesthetics, functionality, and social dynamics within cities. These changes can affect both the quality of life for residents and the identity of neighborhoods. In many cases, the perception of a place as a destination for tourists can overshadow its role as a home for everyday people. A recent survey conducted in 2025 on satisfaction with tourism in Ljubljana revealed mixed perspectives. Nearly three-quarters of respondents expressed a positive view of tourism, believing it brings economic benefits to the city and its residents. However, challenges remain, particularly during peak seasons when infrastructure becomes overwhelmed and the presence of large numbers of tourists affects the daily lives of locals. Many residents feel that their city, once characterized by its unique charm and quiet pace, is losing its essence to mass tourism and commercialization. Tina Perić, a writer and one of the founders of the translation collective Soglasnik, has observed these changes firsthand. She notes that Ljubljana has undergone significant transformation over the past two decades, with some aspects clearly positive. Yet, she also points to a sense of loss, especially among older generations who recall a time when the city felt more personal and less crowded. Perić references a piece published in the magazine Mladina, titled Dobimo se pred Namo, in which she describes a major café that was closed and renovated as a symbol of the city's changing identity. The closure caused panic among locals, who feared that the city was becoming unrecognizable. Similarly, shopkeepers have reported increased anxiety among customers, who arrived in fear of what would happen after the café’s closure. Some worried about where to buy groceries, indicating a deepening disconnect between the city’s new image and the needs of its residents. These experiences underscore the emotional and cultural stakes involved in the ongoing evolution of Ljubljana’s urban landscape. As the debate continues, the focus remains on balancing the interests of tourists with those of local communities. Whether through policy changes, community initiatives, or efforts to preserve traditional practices, the challenge is clear: maintaining the soul of the city while adapting to modern demands. For now, the conversation around bureks and other traditional foods serves as a microcosm of a larger struggle over identity, authenticity, and belonging in an ever-changing urban environment.
★
Keep the news honest.
ObjectiveNews is reader-funded and ad-free — we show you the bias instead of hiding it. Support independent journalism for €4/month.
Become a Supporter