Five young chefs, six Dalmatian dishes and three days of debates that changed the face of tradition

Five young chefs, six Dalmatian dishes, and three days of debate have reshaped perspectives on culinary tradition in Croatia. As part of the "Uplift, friend of Croatian cuisine" project, initiated by Mastercard with the aim of preserving and promoting Croatian gastronomic heritage, five selected chefs, four men and one woman, gathered for an intensive masterclass experience centered around traditional Dalmatian recipes. The participants included Antonio Banovac, a chef from Split who received a scholarship from Raise The Bar and has worked in award-winning restaurants such as Milka in Kranjska Gora and Puteus Palace on Brač; Duje Glušević, a younger generation chef from Brač who interprets local traditions through contemporary culinary language and has experience at Lemon Garden in Sutivan; Stella Pasek, head chef of Konoba Jakan in Vulića Dolac, known for her technical precision and work with micro-local ingredients; Ante Jonjić, chef of restaurant Pinos in Dubrovnik, who approaches Dalmatian traditions and regional recipes through modern techniques; and Dino Grnja from hotel Materra in Čepin, who combines experience from different regions of Croatia with sustainable cooking methods. The masterclass focused on six classic Dalmatian dishes: brudet, pašticada, black risotto, fish soup, grilled fish with blitva, and marinated fish (savur). Rather than creating new dishes, the chefs were tasked with preparing these traditional recipes under the guidance of experienced mentors. What made the sessions unique was not just the recipes themselves, but the extensive discussions and questions that arose during the process. These debates covered everything from how long to marinate fish to why certain ingredients are added in specific orders and how a recipe can look almost identical yet be fundamentally different. Stella Pasek, one of the participating chefs and head of the kitchen at Konoba Jakan, described the experience as fulfilling and enriching. She noted that working alongside a skilled team of chefs and following detailed recipes reignited discussions about techniques and procedures, which she found invaluable. For instance, preparing a traditional pašticada for the first time was both challenging and rewarding. The mentor chefs did an excellent job guiding the participants, while the collaborative environment among peers fostered a deeper understanding of the craft. The goal of the masterclass was not to demonstrate there is only one correct way to prepare a dish, but rather to explain why certain practices became part of the recipe and what makes them significant. Understanding the logic behind each dish allows chefs to reinterpret them in their own style without losing their essence. This approach is particularly crucial for young chefs who will soon present these dishes to both domestic and international guests. For Antonio Banovac, the project offered an opportunity to reflect on his role within Croatian gastronomy. As part of the younger generation of chefs, he believes that chefs like himself have a responsibility to respect tradition and local ingredients while interpreting them in a modern context. This balance between tradition and innovation is especially important for Duje Glušević, a young chef from Brač, who emphasizes that traditional dishes cannot be separated from the local produce and producers that make them unique. He argues that Croatian cuisine should be promoted through its local ingredients and the stories they carry. The impact of the masterclass extends beyond the immediate experience. It aims to ensure that the knowledge embedded in traditional recipes is preserved and passed down effectively. By engaging with these dishes through discussion and practice, the participating chefs gain a deeper appreciation for the cultural significance of their work. This initiative highlights the importance of maintaining culinary heritage while allowing room for evolution and personal interpretation. The lessons learned during the masterclass are expected to influence the future direction of Croatian gastronomy, ensuring that traditional dishes remain relevant and respected in both local and global contexts.