More than a treat: Mexican chocolate culture has ancient roots

More than a treat: Mexican chocolate culture has ancient roots In a terracotta-painted room lit by flickering candles and adorned with clay masks, a young Mexican tourist samples coarse, brown cocoa nibs directly from a small gourd. The experience, part of a workshop held in Oaxaca, introduces her and her family, visitors from Cancún, to the rich, less-sweet flavor of traditional indigenous cocoa. Ervit Hernández Hernández, founder of Chima Cacao, watches with approval as participants engage with the deep-rooted heritage of the region's native cacao varieties. Chocolate, often considered a universal indulgence, traces its origins to the pre-Hispanic civilizations of Mesoamerica, where it was cultivated and consumed for over four millennia. Despite being a major importer of chocolate products, Mexico continues to preserve these ancient practices, particularly in Oaxaca, where initiatives like Chima Cacao work to sustain both the cultural legacy and scientific knowledge surrounding cocoa. Diego Armando Contreras, a biologist with Chima Cacao, emphasizes the importance of understanding the historical context of cocoa. “When you find the origin of things, you gain tools, understanding, and a sense of roots,” he explains, leading training sessions for staff on the history and science behind the bean. His role highlights the growing interest in reconnecting with indigenous agricultural practices amid global disruptions in the chocolate supply chain. About 45 minutes outside the city of Oaxaca, in the state’s central valley, Carmen Martínez begins her day preparing tejate, a traditional cold, frothy beverage made from cocoa. As sunlight breaks through the clouds, she stirs a black tin pot containing heirloom corn, adding oak ash for depth of flavor. For three decades, she has sold this drink from a folding table near the town square of San Bartolo Coyotepec. The global chocolate industry has faced significant challenges recently, marked by cocoa shortages and volatile pricing. These issues have affected producers in countries like Côte d’Ivoire and artisans in the United States alike. Yet, in Oaxaca, the impact of these global shifts seems distant. Here, cocoa has been cultivated for nearly 4,000 years and continues to play a vital role in local traditions. It is commonly consumed as a beverage, especially during communal gatherings and significant life events. For Ms. Martínez, drinking cocoa represents more than just a ritual, it symbolizes family, community, and love. She plans to serve several cocoa-based beverages at the upcoming baptism of her two grandchildren, including a traditional hot chocolate made with water rather than milk. “Eating chocolate is different from drinking it,” she notes, highlighting the distinction between modern confections and the ancestral practice of consuming cocoa as a nourishing drink. Her memories of childhood revolve around the preparation of tejate, a task that once involved her and her seven siblings taking on specific roles in the kitchen. They would help her father prepare the beverage before he took it with him to work in the fields. To her, the act of drinking cocoa is deeply personal, rooted in familial bonds and cultural continuity. In contrast, solid chocolate, while enjoyed, lacks the same emotional resonance. At Chima Cacao, efforts are underway to ensure that these traditions remain intact. The organization, named after the Spanish word for cocoa derived from the Nahuatl term cacahuatl, aims to promote the history and cultural significance of Oaxacan cocoa. Its operations include educational workshops and the production of chocolate bars using locally sourced beans. Elvia Velasco, operations manager, and Arely Pérez, production chief, oversee the crafting of these products in the company’s kitchen. As the global demand for chocolate fluctuates, the resilience of Oaxacan cocoa culture offers a counterpoint to the industrialized production models that dominate much of the world. Local producers continue to rely on time-honored techniques, preserving not only the unique flavors of their region but also the stories embedded within each batch of cocoa. The ongoing challenges facing the chocolate industry underscore the value of maintaining these ancient practices. While the world grapples with supply chain uncertainties, Oaxaca stands as a testament to the enduring connection between land, tradition, and sustenance. For those who live there, the journey of the cocoa bean, from seed to cup, is not merely a process but a living expression of identity and heritage.