How an Iroquois boy with flying pigs conquered the world of Michelin stars

A Spanish chef known for his unconventional style and bold culinary vision has captured global attention with his three-Michelin-star restaurant DiverXO in Madrid. Dabiz Muñoz, whose name was once David Muñoz Rosillo, has become a symbol of a new generation of chefs who blend avant-garde cooking techniques with distinctive personal identities, including his signature punk-style mohawk, multiple piercings, tattoos, and a penchant for high-top sneakers. His journey began in Madrid, where he grew up in a middle-class family that loved food and frequently visited restaurants and tapas bars across the city. A pivotal moment came during a visit to the restaurant Viridiana, run by renowned chef Abraham García, whose fusion of Spanish cuisine with influences from Mexico, North Africa, the Middle East, and Asia left a lasting impression on young Muñoz. After completing culinary school, Muñoz set off on a journey to explore the world, leaving behind his peers who were seeking jobs in Madrid's hotels. He moved to London, working initially at the Hakkasan restaurant, known for its traditional Chinese cuisine, before moving on to Nobu, where he encountered Japanese-Peruvian gastronomy. Later, he worked under the legendary French chef Pierre Koffmann. Despite opportunities to remain in London, Muñoz felt drawn back to Madrid, where in 2007 he partnered with his former wife, Angelo Montero, to open DiverXO in the Tetuán neighborhood, which was far from the city’s more upscale areas. The early days of DiverXO were challenging. The restaurant was small, finances were limited, and both Muñoz and his team often operated on minimal sleep and maximum stress. The menu featured Asian-inspired dishes paired with Iberian pork, Thai curries with Spanish sausages, Mexican chilies alongside French sauces, and Japanese fermented products served with classic Spanish specialties. While many diners struggled to understand these combinations, Muñoz remained focused on creating memorable experiences rather than chasing praise or accolades. This approach caught the attention of Michelin inspectors, who awarded him his first star in 2010. By 2012, after receiving his second Michelin star, DiverXO had become one of Spain’s most sought-after dining destinations, prompting Muñoz and Montero to move into larger premises. One of the defining features of DiverXO is its iconic flying pig sculptures, which adorn the walls, ceilings, and even the menus. The concept of the flying pig has a deeply personal origin for Muñoz. As a child, he told his father he would one day open a restaurant that people would queue for, to which his father jokingly replied in English, “when pigs fly,” meaning it would never happen. Today, the flying pig has become a protective emblem of the entire XO empire, and the tasting menu at DiverXO continues to reflect this whimsical yet profound symbolism. Muñoz’s rise to prominence has been marked by a relentless pursuit of innovation and a refusal to conform to traditional expectations of fine dining. His approach to cuisine blends diverse cultural influences with a flair for theatrical presentation, making each meal an experience as much as a feast. The success of DiverXO has solidified his reputation as a visionary chef, and his unique identity, marked by his punk aesthetic and unapologetic individuality, has become inseparable from his professional persona. With three Michelin stars and a growing international following, Muñoz continues to push boundaries, ensuring that DiverXO remains at the forefront of modern gastronomy.