‘It’s total devastation’: inside the Amazonian war against illegal gold mining

Brazilian security forces dismantled a sprawling illegal gold-mining settlement known as Vila Cururu, located within the Sararé Indigenous territory, marking one of the most severe crackdowns on illegal mining in the Amazon region. The operation, conducted in late March, left the previously bustling community in ruins, with its once-thriving infrastructure reduced to smoldering debris. The move was part of President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva’s broader campaign to eliminate illegal mining activities in Indigenous lands, following years of unchecked exploitation under his former right-wing predecessor, Jair Bolsonaro. Vila Cururu, situated at the edge of the vast Sararé territory, roughly the size of Singapore, had become a hub for illegal gold extraction, drawing thousands of miners and associated workers. The site, named after a venomous tropical toad known for its digging habits, was described as a chaotic mix of makeshift dwellings, commercial establishments, and industrial operations. Miners used rudimentary tools such as pickaxes and explosives to extract gold from the earth, often leaving behind trails of destruction that scarred the surrounding environment. The area, home to approximately 200 members of the Nambiquara people, faced unprecedented threats as illegal mining operations expanded rapidly over the past several years. The scale of environmental degradation in Sararé has been staggering. Between January 2024 and August 2025, roughly 4% of the territory’s forest cover was lost, equating to about 17.3 square miles, an area nearly equivalent to the city of Manhattan. This level of deforestation represents one of the most extreme cases of ecological harm observed in the Amazon in recent years. The destruction was largely attributed to the surge in gold prices, driven by global economic uncertainty linked to political volatility, including the unpredictable policies of U.S. President Donald Trump. As a result, many miners shifted their operations to remote areas like Sararé, seeking refuge from enforcement efforts in more populated regions. Lula’s administration has intensified its efforts to combat illegal mining, particularly in Indigenous territories, where the practice has long been a major driver of deforestation and social conflict. Nilton Tubino, Lula’s designated “eviction tsar,” played a central role in orchestrating the operation in Sararé. During a visit to the site, Tubino walked among the remnants of the mining camp, reflecting on the intensity of the operation. He noted that while the destruction was immense, the effort represented a necessary step toward protecting Indigenous rights and preserving the region’s biodiversity. Government forces, supported by aerial surveillance, executed a coordinated attack on the mining camps, targeting both the physical infrastructure and the human networks sustaining the illegal activity. The operation included the removal of equipment, the seizure of materials, and the apprehension of suspected offenders. The results were immediate and dramatic, with entire communities abandoned and their structures left in disarray. The once-vibrant settlement, which had attracted a diverse array of individuals, from miners to sex workers, to its illicit economy, was effectively erased. The Guardian accompanied Brazilian authorities during a two-day inspection of the affected area, making it the only international media outlet granted access to the region. From the air, the extent of the damage was evident: vast stretches of land had been stripped of vegetation, revealing scars of erosion and contamination. Pools of mercury-laced water, a byproduct of gold extraction, littered the terrain, highlighting the toxic legacy of the industry. The sight prompted a visceral reaction from observers, who likened the scene to a densely packed urban neighborhood, underscoring the scale of the disruption. As the government continues its push to curb illegal mining, the situation in Sararé serves as a stark example of the challenges facing conservation efforts in the Amazon. While the recent operation marks a significant milestone, the underlying drivers of illegal mining, including economic incentives and global market fluctuations, remain potent forces. The fight to protect Indigenous lands and ecosystems will likely require sustained commitment and international cooperation.