In a place overrun by tourists, we found a secret we had all to ourselves

In a place overrun by tourists, we found a secret we had all to ourselves. This was not referring to the well-trodden paths of Machu Picchu or the crowded trails of the Sacred Valley, but rather to a hidden gem nestled deep within the Peruvian Andes—the Colca Canyon. While many travelers flock to the more accessible and heavily promoted sites, the Colca Canyon remains relatively unspoiled, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural history, and wildlife that few get to experience firsthand.

Colca Canyon is among the deepest canyons in the world, measuring nearly 3400 meters at its deepest point—almost twice the depth of the Grand Canyon in the United States. Despite its grandeur, it has remained largely under the radar compared to its more famous counterparts. The area is known for its dramatic volcanic landscapes, thermal hot springs, and the presence of the Andean condor, which holds the distinction of being the largest flying bird of prey on Earth. These elements combine to create an environment that feels both ancient and untouched, offering a stark contrast to the commercialized tourism seen elsewhere in Peru.

For those willing to venture beyond the typical tourist routes, the Colca Canyon presents a challenging yet rewarding journey. One such expedition led a group of six travelers toward the Chimpa Fortress, a pre-Inca archaeological site constructed by the Collaguas over 700 years ago. The ascent began at an elevation of approximately 3330 meters above sea level and required a climb of around 715 meters over the course of four hours. The path itself was steep, with sections reaching 45-degree inclines, making the trek physically demanding.

To prepare for the high altitudes, locals often advise spending several days in nearby Arequipa, a colonial city known for its rich history and mild climate. However, the group had only spent one night there, leading to immediate challenges related to altitude sickness. To combat these effects, they relied on traditional remedies such as coca and muna leaf teas, which are commonly used in the region to alleviate symptoms associated with high elevations. Despite their efforts, the journey was arduous, and the group was acutely aware of the physical toll it took on them.

As they ascended, the breathtaking scenery offered some respite. Terraced fields of potatoes, corn, and quinoa stretched out below, creating a vibrant tapestry of color against the rugged landscape. Their guide, Yulisa Oxa, played a crucial role in managing the pace of the hike, pausing frequently to allow the group to catch their breath. Her intuitive understanding of the terrain and the needs of her travelers helped make the experience more bearable, even amidst the physical strain.

It was during one of these pauses that the group encountered an unforgettable moment. Yulisa pointed out a solitary figure perched on a distant rock formation—a juvenile Andean condor. The sight was mesmerizing, with the bird's massive wings spanning nearly three meters. As it spread its wings and turned toward the valley, the group was struck by the sheer majesty of the creature. Yulisa explained that the bird was young, identifiable by its distinctive white neck collar, a feature that develops after eight years of life. What followed was nothing short of magical; within moments, additional condors appeared, eventually numbering up to twelve, circling gracefully above the group. This unexpected encounter with nature’s wonders underscored the profound connection between the local culture and the natural world, as the Collaguas once revered the condor as a divine entity representing the "upper world" above the clouds.