An Istrian tradition with a view of the sea and the Alps

At the top of a cliff lies a hidden gem of the Kvarner: a rocky place above the sea where cats outnumber humans, yet the view is exceptional. Nestled on the northern part of Cres, far from the island’s tourist trails, ice cream stands, and bustling promenades, this ancient stone village sits approximately 130 meters above the sea, offering an unparalleled view over the Kvarner Gulf and Krk Island. Today, only around 54 residents call this place home, making it a destination for those seeking a slower, more authentic slice of island life. The journey to the village begins with a road that might surprise drivers used to wide, comfortable highways. The sense of isolation is one of the village's charms, set against a backdrop of karst pastures, abandoned shepherd homes, steep cliffs, and the forests of Tramuntana, which host numerous hiking trails. Once, the village was much livelier, around two thousand inhabitants lived here decades ago. Now, its population has dwindled significantly, though locals joke that there are at least twice as many cats as people. Despite its small size, the village is far from lifeless, its most notable residents come from the sky. Cres is one of Europe’s most important regions for white-tailed eagles. These powerful birds can have a wingspan of nearly three meters, and it is particularly unusual that they nest on cliffs directly above the sea along the Kvarner coast. During the year, they utilize air currents and can glide for long distances with minimal wing movement. In what was once a school building in the village, today operates both a visitor center and a rehabilitation center for these endangered birds. Visitors learn more about their lives and the efforts to protect them. But the story of the village is much older than modern conservation projects. Due to its unique location above the sea, the area was already significant in antiquity. At the site of an ancient Liburnian settlement, the Romans established Caput Insulae, meaning “Head of the Island.” Even today, one can see a stone bridge across the canyon of the stream, considered the only surviving Roman bridge in this part of the Adriatic. The village’s center is small but rich in stone remnants of its long history. Narrow paved streets wind through old houses, with the town hall and church of Saint Mary with its bell tower standing at the central square. The slopes beneath the village have been adapted over centuries for vineyards. Even in midsummer, it is possible to walk through the streets almost alone. Most daytime visitors stop at a local tavern near the entrance before exploring the stone alleys or heading towards the sea. Below the village lies a beach with camping facilities, and private accommodations can be found for those wishing to stay overnight. For hikers and nature lovers, the Tramuntana range hides numerous hiking trails, old churches, stone labyrinths, and educational paths. From the village starts the approximately seven-kilometer-long Vilinska Trail, although hikers should check trail conditions beforehand, as some sections may become overgrown due to lush vegetation. This village is not for those seeking nightlife, large hotel complexes, or constant activity. Its charm lies precisely in contrast, it offers silence, stone, wild nature, a view of the sea, and the feeling that time has paused at the edge of the Cres cliff for a few moments. In Istria, tradition meets the view of the sea and the Alps. Instead of a seaside stroll, consider a hike with a view of the sea. Slovenian Istria offers much more than just beaches along the coast. A visit to Pomjan is recommended. Pomjan is the highest village in the Šavrinski Gričevje hills (342 meters), named after the once extensive apple orchards in the area. Its history dates back to ancient times, as indicated by the remains of a Roman settlement on the hill of Poljana. In Roman times, the path passed through from Oglje to Pula. The village is bordered on one side by the valley of Badaševica and on the other by Rokava. Its most popular attraction is the viewpoint at the top of Pomjan Hill. How to get to Pomjan? You can reach the village from the west via Šmarij, or from the east through Marež and Babičev, where the road rises sharply before descending into Pomjan. If you prefer to explore, take the southern route through Župančiče and the village of Fijeroga. From Kopar, you can also walk to Pomjan via Kampel and Manžan, requiring about two hours. Driving takes approximately 25 minutes. This characteristic Istrian village with clustered buildings is becoming a frequent stop for hikers and excursionists who appreciate the intimacy of Istria’s interior. The rugged terrain can be explored on the Pomjan Fairy Tale, a circular trail starting from the chapel in Kampel. Along the hike, impressive views of the Kopar Bay, Vanganel Valley, nearby hills, and under good weather conditions even the Alpine chain and Dolomite mountains can be enjoyed. Besides typical Istrian houses, visitors can see the Church of St. George, with its kind of bell tower, the village well, with a stone path leading from it. In the village, you can also find a church dedicated to the Birth of Mary, with remnants of frescoes from the beginning of the 15th century and glagolitic inscriptions, as well as an exhibition on the history of Pomjan. Pomjan Fairy Tale (marked as P5) Duration of the hike: 2–2.5 hours Length of the trail: 8.2 km Elevation difference: 8–378 m Parking: at the turnoff of Vanganel Street near Kampel at the chapel Difficulty level: moderately challenging, suitable for all seasons Who are the Šavrinci? If you arrange an organized tour, you might meet Šavrinci, who will introduce you to the life of the region in the past and present. Šavrinci were girls forced by poverty and economic crisis at the beginning of the last century to transport produce on donkeys to Trieste. Particularly distinctive was the activity of selling eggs and milk. They were traders who later brought fabric, wool, and other goods from the city. Even today, members of the Cultural Association Šavrini and Anka Šavrinci (from Gračišće) strive to preserve the dialect and other cultural heritage in their area, telling stories of this legacy and difficult times, especially during the war, when this was often the only way many families survived. Explore the Karst Edge Are you a lover of cycling, hiking, and karst caves? The Karst Edge offers all of this, where rich natural and cultural heritage, breathtaking views, endless rock walls, and exceptional Istrian cuisine intertwine. Whether you're looking for adventure in untouched nature, historical landmarks, or local cuisine, you'll surely discover something special in these areas. The Karst Edge stretches from Socerb near the Slovenian-Italian border to Mlin near the Slovenian-Croatian border, measuring about 20 kilometers in length and 2.5 to five kilometers in width. There are recorded 47 steep rock walls with a total length of 51 kilometers. Here, you can see many geological peculiarities such as sinkholes, caves, crevices, rock formations, and pits. Traditional Flavors Of course, you shouldn't leave Pomjan without a good drink and a snack. At the local oil mill (Lisjak), you can immerse yourself in the world of olive cultivation and arrange a tasting of extra virgin olive oil. They can also take you on a nostalgic gourmet journey using vintage vehicles. If you want to try traditional Istrian dishes, order bobice, mineštro with corn, legumes, and cured meat, or the famous Istrian fuži. 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