‘For me, this has been a fashion journey’: The clothing treasures of Birr Castle

At Birr Castle in County Offaly, Ireland, a remarkable collection of historical garments has emerged from centuries of obscurity, offering a unique glimpse into the evolution of fashion over four hundred years. The discovery includes nearly 400 items, ranging from 17th-century attire to 20th-century couture, all preserved within the estate once inhabited by the Rosse family. These artifacts, long hidden away, are set to be unveiled publicly for the first time during National Heritage Week in August, marking a significant moment for both local and international fashion historians. The unearthing of these garments began under the stewardship of Lady Alicia Parsons, the current custodian of the Birr Castle estate. As the daughter of the 7th Earl and Countess of Rosse, she has taken on the task of cataloging and preserving the clothing that had previously been overlooked in favor of other household furnishings. “In this big, old house, the furniture and paintings were endlessly catalogued from the 1800s, but clothing as heirlooms were seen as personal to the individual and not listed in the inventory of contents and not valued,” she explained. This revelation has sparked interest beyond the family circle, drawing attention from archivists and historians eager to explore the narratives woven into each piece of fabric. The work of archivists Eleanor Aitken and Lily Morgan, both graduates of Central Saint Martins, has been pivotal in bringing these treasures to light. Their efforts have focused on examining the extensive collection housed in what was once Lady Alicia's childhood bedroom, located on the upper floors of the castle. Here, amidst the grandeur of tapestries and ancestral portraits, they have meticulously sorted through boxes filled with garments, accessories, and personal effects. Each item discovered adds layers to the understanding of the lives of those who wore them, revealing insights into personal relationships and societal changes reflected in fashion trends. Among the highlights of the collection are gowns designed by Charles James, a renowned figure in 20th-century fashion. Notably, there is a taxi dress created using innovative techniques such as seamless construction and zippers, features that were groundbreaking at the time. Additionally, newly uncovered letters exchanged between James and Anne Countess of Rosse, known affectionately as Gúna, highlight a collaborative relationship that influenced both their respective careers. Gúna, a prominent socialite and trendsetter, played a crucial role in shaping her era's aesthetic standards, and her influence continues to resonate today. The collection also features a Cocteau print dress, a bespoke creation by James that incorporates elements of avant-garde artistry. This piece exemplifies the intersection of high fashion and artistic expression, showcasing the designer’s ability to blend structural integrity with visual flair. The dress, adorned with a signature from Jean Cocteau himself, reflects the deep connections between fashion and contemporary art movements of the period. As the project progresses, further discoveries are anticipated, with more items expected to be revealed as the archivists continue their meticulous work. The significance of these findings extends beyond mere aesthetics; they provide tangible links to the past, allowing future generations to appreciate the cultural and historical contexts in which these garments were worn. With the upcoming exhibition, visitors will have the opportunity to engage directly with these artifacts, experiencing firsthand the stories they encapsulate.