River bathing in Berlin: brains such as Klaus Töpfer

In summer 2027, a new section of Berlin’s urban landscape is set to open, a 38-meter-wide staircase along the canal near the false city palace. The structure, complete with shade trees and seating areas, aims to enhance public space around the Spree River. However, this project has already become a symbol of unrealized ambitions. Originally conceived as part of a river bath revival, the staircase was meant to complement over 30 historic bathing sites once common along the Spree. These were abandoned nearly a century ago due to health concerns, leading to their decline. Yet, despite years of funding and planning, the Spree remains unfit for safe swimming, leaving the staircase standing empty, like a diving board without a pool. The contrast between Berlin and other European cities such as Paris, Copenhagen, and Basel highlights a deeper issue. In these places, river bathing has been revived through improved water quality and public investment. In Berlin, however, even optimistic proposals face resistance. Cultural preservationists argue that reviving historical bathing culture would clash with the city's classical architecture. They view the idea as too frivolous, not because of pollution, but because they believe it doesn’t fit the aesthetic of Prussian classicism. Illegal swimmers, meanwhile, see things differently. Activists associated with the “Flussbad Berlin” group believe that determination alone can improve conditions for safe river swimming. They claim that simply demonstrating willingness to swim in the Spree could help clean its waters. This attitude echoes the defiant stance of former CDU Environment Minister Klaus Töpfer, who in 1988 jumped into the Rhine to prove its cleanliness. Now, the debate continues in circles: some say the Spree is too polluted for swimming, others argue that banning swimming has worsened the problem. On Thursday, the “Flussbad Berlin” organization again invited citizens to participate in a protest swim, this time supported by local lifeguard Matthias Lilienthal and members of the “Volksbad” collective. Despite hopes for improvement, water quality tests revealed E. coli levels 2.5 times higher than acceptable. As a result, the swimming portion of the demonstration was canceled for the third time. The organizers had remained hopeful until the last moment, believing that water quality might have improved. But nothing changed. The struggle over the Spree reflects broader tensions between tradition and modernity, regulation and activism. While Berlin invests millions in infrastructure projects, the river itself remains a site of controversy. The staircase, once a promising step toward a revitalized public space, now stands as a monument to failed visions. Meanwhile, activists continue their efforts, determined to reclaim the river for recreational use. Whether the Spree will ever become a place where people can swim safely remains uncertain. For now, the water flows unchanged, carrying both history and hope.