Chef preserves Hatay's culinary heritage after devastating earthquake

In the aftermath of the 2023 earthquakes that devastated parts of southern Turkey, one local chef is working tirelessly to preserve the culinary heritage of Hatay, a historically rich region known for its unique flavors and traditions. Chef Şemse Gökalp, a passionate cook and cookbook author, has turned her grief and determination into a powerful project aimed at keeping Hatay’s gastronomic culture alive. Her latest work, titled Kırık Tabaklar, or “Broken Plates”, is more than just a collection of recipes; it is a tribute to resilience, a chronicle of loss, and a celebration of communal bonds forged in hardship. The earthquakes struck on February 6, 2023, leaving widespread destruction across the country, particularly in Hatay, which suffered some of the worst damage. In the wake of the disaster, Chef Gökalp, who had already been active on social media sharing her culinary expertise, decided to channel her efforts toward helping survivors. She used her platform to connect with those affected, offering meals and support, and documenting their experiences. This initiative led to the creation of her cookbook, which blends traditional Hatay dishes with narratives drawn from the lives of those she encountered during the recovery period. The title of the book holds deep significance. It reflects a poignant moment during the crisis when, despite the devastation, families continued to gather around tables, using whatever they had left, often broken plates, to share food. Zübeyde Gökalp Kanat, Şemse’s sister-in-law, recalls how the phrase “Broken Plates” came to symbolize both the physical remnants of the disaster and the enduring spirit of the community. “During the earthquake, we set our tables with whatever we had in our hands,” she explained. “We ate off those broken plates.” Chef Gökalp feared that the earthquake might erase the legacy of Hatay’s celebrated cuisine, especially since several prominent chefs and culinary experts perished in the disaster. However, she observed that food remained a unifying force. As the recovery process began, she noticed that people were not only surviving but also reviving their traditions. “We fell into despair,” she recalled, “but afterward, during the recovery process, I saw that once again the table brought us together.” The act of cooking and eating became a means of healing, reinforcing the idea that Hatay’s culinary identity was not only intact but stronger than ever. For many residents of Hatay, preserving family recipes has taken on new importance. These recipes, often passed down through generations, represent more than just sustenance, they are cultural touchstones. By documenting these dishes and the stories behind them, Chef Gökalp hopes to ensure that future generations will continue to honor their roots. Her work stands as a testament to the power of food to sustain memory, foster connection, and rebuild communities in times of crisis.