Chef Hrvoje Zirojevic reveals why some rules are worth keeping

Chef Hrvoje Zirojević has revealed why certain rules should be preserved in traditional cuisine, emphasizing the importance of maintaining authenticity while allowing room for innovation. He argues that some elements of traditional dishes must remain unchanged, even as others evolve with time and local practices. His comments come amid a broader initiative aimed at preserving and promoting Croatian culinary heritage through a collaborative effort involving chefs, experts, and young cooks. The discussion centers around the dish brudet, which exemplifies how traditional recipes can vary regionally, whether in Dubrovnik, Split, or Zadar, yet still retain its identity. While ingredients, preparation methods, and seasonality differ, certain core components define the dish. According to Zirojević, these unchanging elements are crucial. For instance, he insists that brudet must always include yeast, a key ingredient historically used even without wine. “There’s a million different ways to make brudet,” he says, “but none should lack yeast. That’s non-negotiable.” Behind this seemingly simple statement lies a deeper question: How can traditional dishes maintain their authenticity while remaining adaptable to new interpretations? This challenge has prompted a group of leading Croatian chefs, food experts, and young cooks to collaborate on a project called Uplift, Prijatelj hrvatske kuhinje (Friend of Croatian Cuisine). Initiated by Mastercard in partnership with the Ministry of Tourism and Sports and the Croatian Chamber of Commerce, the project seeks to preserve and promote Croatia's gastronomic heritage without rigidly defining a single version of each dish. The goal is not to create a standardized recipe that limits creativity but rather to identify the common elements that make traditional dishes recognizable. The team behind the project includes Zirojević, Marina Medak, Braco Sanjin, Vjeko Bašić, Marija Curić, gastronomy expert Radovan Marčić, and culinary consultant Dina Galvagna. Together, they have developed standardized recipes for six key Dalmatian dishes: black risotto, fish soup, marinated blue fish, brudet, fish with grilled bread and cabbage, and pašticada with njoka. These recipes, complete with detailed instructions and helpful tips from Medak, are available exclusively to Mastercard cardholders via the platform priceless.com. Marčić highlights the need for greater confidence in Croatian cuisine. He notes that while we often admire foreign culinary traditions, we sometimes take our own for granted. “We should be proud of our heritage,” he says, “because it tells a story of place, people, and lifestyle that cannot be replicated.” In this context, standardization does not mean limiting tradition, it means safeguarding it so that future generations can build upon it without losing its essence. Zirojević underscores that the foundation of great cooking begins long before the kitchen. “Good food starts with good ingredients,” he explains. “You need fresh, homegrown produce, good fish, cabbage, potatoes, and quality olive oil. Skill matters, but for beginners, enthusiasm and basic knowledge are enough.” He advocates for increased consumption of smaller blue fish, which have long been a staple of Dalmatian cuisine. “They’ve fed Dalmatia for centuries, and we should prepare and eat them more often,” he adds. Participants in the masterclasses organized as part of the project confirm that the initiative is valuable not just for its recipes but also for the opportunity to learn from seasoned professionals. Young chefs eager to develop their skills have engaged with the working group, gaining insights into traditional techniques and the cultural significance of the dishes they prepare. The collaboration reflects a shared commitment to ensuring that Croatia’s culinary legacy continues to thrive in both traditional and modern contexts.