Embroidery is part of her identity.

Maria Concepcion Sanchez, a weaver from the village of San Bartolome Quialana in Oaxaca’s Central Valleys, describes her craft as part of her identity. “My grandmother told me that my clothes always have to have flowers,” she says, explaining that women are like flowers, they are delicate and need to take care of themselves, with those around them also taking responsibility for their well-being. Her hands, busy threading red thread into a blouse, reflect this belief, as they continue the tradition passed down through generations. For the women of Quialana, clothing is more than just attire, it is a symbol of resistance, identity, and cultural continuity. The village, home to approximately 2,389 residents according to the 2020 INEGI census, is known locally as “cerro tiznado” in Zapotec, meaning “stained hill.” This name refers to a nearby hill they call a guardian, visible from anywhere within the community. The women of Quialana still speak Zapotec, and each day, they weave intricate patterns into their traditional garments. These pieces, such as the pleated lace dress, huipil, and mandil, are woven even while they perform other tasks, including work in public spaces. The process is both practical and artistic, reflecting a deep connection to heritage. Hortensia Martinez, a 68-year-old weaver, recalls learning the craft on her own after becoming a mother. The need to make clothes for her children led her to develop skills that now earn her recognition among other weavers. She has become a pattern designer, creating motifs ranging from flowers to pavorreals. These designs are carefully embroidered onto blouses worn under dresses, making the intricate embroidery visible and admired. The complexity and vibrant colors of these creations highlight the skill and dedication of the weavers. Traditional garments such as the pleated lace dress, which is made using a sewing machine due to its intricacy, cost around 700 pesos. A handwoven mandil, which takes about a week to complete, ranges from 1,500 pesos. These textiles are not confined to the village alone; they are sold at the traditional market in Tlacolula and exhibited in Oaxaca City. The growing reputation of this traditional clothing has led to events like the recent edition of the Expo Venta Tradicional, held in the town center, where local cuisine and cultural activities were also celebrated. The headpiece, known as a mascada, is another distinctive element of the Quialana women’s attire. This piece, featuring colorful floral prints, was introduced more recently when family members who migrated to the United States sent it back to the community. It has since been adopted as part of the traditional wardrobe. According to reports, one woman gave this type of mascada to President Claudia Sheinbaum during her visit to Oaxaca, and she wore it just as the women of Quialana do. Beyond weaving, the women of Quialana engage in agriculture and commerce. They produce tejate and tortillas to sell, and in the fields, they cultivate tomatoes and marigolds, working from June to December. Their resilience is evident in their ability to take on diverse roles, from artisans to farmers. As they laugh, they describe themselves as “aventadas”, bold and capable in any task.