Boom Continues: The Pursuit of Happiness on the Pilgrim's Way

Anton Höhlmüller packs his backpack with essentials, apples, a large water bottle, and depending on the weather, a sweater or raincoat. Since 1983, he has made the annual pilgrimage from Purgstall, in the Scheibbs district, to Mariazell in Styria’s Bruck-Mürzzuschlag district. His journey began decades ago, though not without hardship. “I had terrible blisters on my feet after my first pilgrimage,” he recalls, laughing. Despite the discomfort, he returned year after year, eventually organizing the pilgrimage for his parish of Purgstall himself. Höhlmüller is far from alone in this tradition. Each year, around 60 people join him on the route, with numbers peaking at 210 in one particularly busy season. More people in Lower Austria are choosing pilgrimages over other forms of travel. Yvonne Simek, a destination manager for the Mostviertel region under the Lower Austria Tourism Board, notes the growing trend. “We see more people deciding to walk pilgrimage routes. At the same time, new routes are constantly emerging,” she says. The Via Sacra, which has been walked for over 800 years, covers 120 kilometers and is considered the oldest pilgrimage path in Austria. Mariazell, home to its basilica, stands as the most significant pilgrimage site in Central Europe. Yet competition is rising, with new paths such as the Bernhardiweg in the Waldviertel and the Via Trinitatis in the Mostviertel gaining popularity. For Höhlmüller, the motivation remains unchanged. “I want to thank God each year. That gives me something.” He also sees the continuation of a tradition rooted in history. “The founders of our pilgrimage were at the front during World War II. They vowed to come back to Mariazell whenever they recovered health. I want to keep that spirit alive.” Others have different reasons for walking. “It’s important to distinguish between pilgrimage and religious pilgrimage,” Simek explains. “Religious pilgrimage is often deeply spiritual, while many modern pilgrims seek a break from daily life, enjoy nature, or simply treat themselves to something special.” The motivations vary widely. Some seek respite from routine, others the physical challenge of long-distance walking, and still others a deeper search for faith. A few use their time on foot to mark a life transition, whether ending a chapter or beginning anew. This trend has economic implications too. Walking is among the most popular tourism activities in Lower Austria. Over a quarter of all holidays in the state involve hiking. Pilgrimage tourists often stay for several days or even weeks, spending more time in the region than typical visitors. Michael Duscher, managing director of Lower Austria Tourism, describes the rise in long-distance walking as a positive development. “Long-distance walking is trending. These travelers often stay longer, helping to extend stays and attract more visitors to the region.” During the 2022/23 season, these guests contributed nearly 101.6 million euros to the local economy. Despite the financial benefits, Höhlmüller remains focused on the personal significance of the journey. When he sets off with his group toward Mariazell, it’s about faith, community, nature, and the quiet moments spent along the way. “That feeling of putting on the hiking boots and starting again is something I look forward to all year,” he says.