Before he was Anthony Bourdain, he was a ‘young lout, badly in need of a good ass-kicking’

A24's new film Tony, based on the early years of Anthony Bourdain's life, presents a raw and unflattering portrait of the late chef, writer, and television personality. The film, starring Dominic Sessa as a younger version of Bourdain, delves into the formative experiences that shaped the man who would later become a global icon of culinary exploration and storytelling. Bourdain was 19 when he left his home in Texas and headed to Provincetown, Massachusetts, on Cape Cod, a decision that marked the start of his journey into the culinary world. This period, chronicled in his 2000 memoir Kitchen Confidential, is central to the narrative of Tony. The film, directed by Matt Johnson, adapts these early chapters, crafting a coming-of-age story that captures the tumultuous and often reckless nature of Bourdain's youth. The title itself, Tony, hints at the duality of the character: a man who would eventually become a revered figure, yet whose past was far less polished. Sessa, who portrays the young Bourdain, admits he had little familiarity with the public persona of the man he was playing. “Before making the film, I couldn’t have picked Bourdain in a police lineup, anyway,” he says. His portrayal begins with a character who is brash, insecure, and prone to exaggeration. The young Bourdain, played by Sessa, is seen engaging in conversations with college professors about rewriting Orwell’s Down and Out in Paris and London while carrying nunchucks and pursuing women with awkward persistence. These traits, though exaggerated, reflect the real-life persona of Bourdain during his early twenties. The film draws heavily from Bourdain’s own writings, particularly Kitchen Confidential, which includes candid reflections on his own behavior and the chaotic environment of restaurant kitchens. One of the most quoted passages from the book reads: “I was a spoiled, miserable, narcissistic, self-destructive, and thoughtless young lout, badly in need of a good ass-kicking.” This line serves as the film’s starting point, framing the narrative around the transformation of a flawed individual into someone who would later inspire millions. Johnson, the film’s writer and director, acknowledges that the portrayal of Bourdain’s early years might seem like an invention, especially given the more refined image of the man who became a household name. However, the film’s depiction aligns with Bourdain’s own willingness to confront his past. In an “insider’s edition” of Kitchen Confidential published in 2013, Bourdain included handwritten notes criticizing the tone of earlier sections, expressing frustration with what he perceived as self-importance and pomposity. The film explores the influence of key figures in Bourdain’s life, including Sal, a drug-using, womanizing line cook portrayed by Leo Woodall, and a wise, Zen-like chef played by Antonio Banderas. These mentors represent contrasting paths for the young Bourdain, one leading him toward destructive habits and the other offering guidance and wisdom. For Sessa, this dynamic resonates deeply. “I can’t relate to the Bourdain everyone knows,” he explains. “This guy who is writing novels and working in kitchens professionally. But I can relate to being an impressionable young person with pessimistic views on the world and a sense of entitlement.” The film’s release comes amid broader cultural discussions about toxic masculinity and the legacy of figures like Bourdain, who publicly acknowledged the potential impact of his work on societal norms. Following the #MeToo movement, Bourdain expressed regret over the potentially enabling effect of Kitchen Confidential, which contained explicit descriptions of violence and sexual encounters. Despite this, the film maintains a focus on Bourdain’s personal growth rather than excusing his past actions. As the film prepares for its debut, it offers audiences a glimpse into the origins of a man who, despite his flaws, ultimately found purpose and meaning through his passion for food and travel. The narrative suggests that even the most unlikable beginnings can lead to profound change, a theme that continues to resonate with fans of Bourdain’s work.