The indigenous Korčula variety of almost forgotten wine in ten years became the star of the Croatian wine scene

A rare indigenous grape variety once nearly forgotten has become a star of Croatia's wine scene in just over a decade. Known locally as grk, this unique vine has found renewed appreciation among winemakers and consumers alike, marking a remarkable revival after years of obscurity. The story of grk begins with Branko Cebalo, a private winemaker from the island of Korčula in the early 20th century. He cultivated this grape in his vineyard near Lumbarda, producing wine from a variety few others knew existed. At the time, very few were familiar with the wine, but its qualities eventually caught the attention of Mato Đurović, who later became the owner of a restaurant in Dubrovnik. Đurović was so impressed by the wine’s character that he included it on his menu as a house specialty. This small act of recognition set the stage for a broader rediscovery. The origins of the name grk remain uncertain. Some believe it comes from the ancient Greeks, who may have brought the grape to the region. Others suggest the name arose from the bitter flavors often associated with the wine. Regardless of its etymology, one thing is clear: grk is native to the area. Genetic studies indicate strong connections to other Dalmatian varieties, reinforcing its status as an indigenous grape. While the exact arrival date on the island is unknown, its presence has been documented for centuries. In recent years, grk has gained increasing prominence within Croatian viticulture. The resurgence began around a decade ago, starting with efforts from the vineyards of Lumbarda. One of the key figures in this revival was Frano Milina Bire, the owner of a local winery. His cheerful demeanor and passion for grk helped capture the interest of wine enthusiasts. His Grk Bire quickly became a standout product, drawing attention to the potential of the grape. Following Bire’s success, other producers from Korčula and beyond began experimenting with grk, gradually expanding its cultivation across regions such as Lastova, Pelješac, Konavle, Kastel, and even parts of Herzegovina. Today, grk is no longer a rarity. It can be found in several vineyards throughout Croatia, with the majority still concentrated on Korčula. Approximately 50 hectares are currently planted, yielding roughly 60,000 bottles annually. Though these numbers seem modest compared to more widely grown varieties, they have played a crucial role in bringing grk into the spotlight both nationally and internationally. Its wines have begun to receive international acclaim, earning awards at prestigious competitions such as the International Wine Challenge (IWC) and the Decanter World Wine Awards (WWA). As a result, demand for grk wines has surged, leading to increased prices and greater visibility among restaurants and wine bars. Despite its growing popularity, cultivating grk presents challenges. The grape is monoecious, meaning male and female flowers grow on the same plant, which makes pollination less predictable. Additionally, yields tend to be low, requiring careful management. However, these traits contribute to the quality of the resulting wines. Grk produces balanced acidity, moderate alcohol levels, and a range of sweet notes, making it suitable for both fresh, young wines and aged bottlings. Winemakers who take the time to nurture grk find it rewarding, as it offers the potential for complex, long-lived wines. As the reputation of grk continues to grow, so too does the interest in preserving and promoting this unique grape. With its deep roots in Croatian soil and its ability to produce distinctive, high-quality wines, grk stands as a testament to the resilience and creativity of local viticulturists. Whether enjoyed in a quiet corner of a restaurant or celebrated at international tastings, grk has firmly established itself as a symbol of Croatia’s evolving wine heritage.