Old chickens taste better: this is served in the organic farm

In the heart of a bio-farm near Donnerskirchen, a unique culinary philosophy is taking shape. The farm, known as Esterhazy, has become a hub for sustainable and traditional food practices. At its helm is Peter Zinter, a seasoned chef who blends old-world techniques with contemporary sustainability principles. His latest venture, the restaurant “Zum Gogosch,” opened in the autumn of 2024 within the restored barn of a centuries-old meyerhof, originally mentioned in records dating back to 1675. This establishment serves as a testament to the harmonious integration of past and present in Burgenland's gastronomy. The farm itself is a vivid tapestry of rural life. Lipizzaner-colored steppe cattle graze on a weideland, their long, gently curved horns making them ideal candidates for any Western film casting. These animals are protected by trees and shrubs that shield a marshy landscape from the summer of 2026. Pigs wallow in the mud, occasionally lifting their heads to greet visitors before returning to their leisurely activities. The area is a living museum of agricultural traditions, where nature and human care coexist in balance. Zinter, 46 years old, is renowned for his ability to elevate simple ingredients into exceptional dishes. He often visits the local butchers to procure specific cuts, such as the meat from the farm’s sun-fed pigs. His approach reflects a deep respect for regional and seasonal produce, which aligns with the broader trend of sustainable cooking. The restaurant’s menu features a range of dishes crafted from locally sourced materials, including fish from the Neusiedler Sea, game, and poultry raised on-site. Julia Waldbauer, the head of gastronomy, explains how the renovation of the old barn preserved its historical character. They discovered ancient reeds hidden beneath the ceiling, which were replaced with new ones while maintaining the original aesthetic. The stone troughs along the walls remain intact, and the beautiful brick floor was simply moved down one level. This attention to detail underscores the restaurant’s commitment to both heritage and innovation. Zinter’s journey began with a passion for cooking, nurtured by his uncle and later refined during his studies at the Vienna Jewish Place culinary school. There, he became one of the last students of the legendary TV chef Franz Zodl, whose teaching style was marked by enthusiasm and precision. Zinter’s career took him through several notable restaurants, though not without setbacks. One particularly challenging experience was managing his own guesthouse in the Marchfeld region, which ultimately led to his decision to focus on more sustainable ventures. His current role at “Zum Gogosch” allows him to explore the concept of circular economy in cooking. For instance, the farm’s older laying hens, though aged, offer superior flavor. Zinter uses their meat to create tsukune, a Japanese delicacy consisting of grilled chicken meatballs revered almost religiously. This practice exemplifies the farm’s holistic approach to resource utilization, where nothing goes to waste. The restaurant’s operations extend beyond the kitchen. The flour used in bread comes directly from the farm’s grain fields. Leftovers are transformed into breadcrumbs, which are combined with flour and eggs from the chicken coop for coating. Even oil is sourced from the farm’s sunflowers, ensuring that every ingredient supports the farm’s self-sufficiency. Zinter’s presence at the farm feels like a homecoming. His expertise and dedication have helped transform the space into a place where traditional values meet modern sustainability. As he continues to refine his craft, the future of “Zum Gogosch” looks promising, rooted in the land and its people.